Pashmina (derived from the Persian word "pashm"-cloth) is a beautiful wool, which is obtained from the Capra Hircus (or Chyandra Nepali), Himalaya mountain goat. In the Himalayas, where these animals live, the climate is harsh: cold in winter (up to -30 C), and in summer is hot and dry. In these circumstances, a scapegoat grows two podsherstka: top-rough, thick wool and lower-coat "of the" blue chips. Every spring farmers raised high in the mountains and it almost vychesyvayut nevesomy Pooh to the neck and abdomen scapegoat. The average thickness of the fiber down in June, six less than the diameter of human hair.
What began pashminovy "boom" in Europe?
Indeed fashion product of a pashminy not today. First avgusteyshim fan cashmere pashmin a founder of Mughal dynasty Great Zahireddin Muhammad Babur in the XVI century. His successor, Emperor Akbar each fall on the Great Silk road vysylalas parameters troika never pashmin that rasshivalis gold ornaments and precious stones. About how pashmina first came to Europe, there was even a special legend: allegedly at the end of the XVIII century ruler of Kashmir Abdullah Khan gave an excellent head Saiidu Yahua, honorary guest of Baghdad. Yahua, as in Egypt, gave it to his friend Khedive. This happened before the conquest of Egypt, Napoleon. Among other tips, and the winner was pashmina. The future emperor was wonderful things away and gave it to his wife Josefina. Josephine interested in her collection will soon appear shawls all shades. Since then, women of all ruling dynasties of Europe have felt a pashminy in his room. They passed inherited from generation to generation, complete with other family jewels. Here's status as now being expressed, accessory pashmina in a secular Europe room in the middle of the XIX century, this fashion has Empress Eugenia. They say Eugene satisfied that attraction: when the conversation became boring, it has eliminated the ring with his ring finger and demonstrated ease with which it passes through the head ring.
How do pashmina?
The main wool gathered each spring in the mountains, spun by hand. Pre investigate wool, sorted quality fiber and cleaned in a mixture of rice and water to remove impurities. Curl yarn using a hand wheel is a very laborious process, requiring a great deal of experience, skill and patience hands.
Yarn pashminy too thin and tender to loom, so basically its fabric hand. Textile process itself is very difficult, the experience is transmitted in the family from generation to generation. To weave one head should spend approximately four working days.
Hallmark products pashminy is pretty typical fringe, which makes women's manually dexterous fingers. This process takes several hours.
Colouring products are also largely manual. Typically, the same profession krasilschiki-family, the experience accumulated years. For the development of paints used on clean water from glacial sources. The process operates at temperatures below the boiling point within an hour. Wool pashminy very easy to paint and staining persistent and deep.
At the customer's request can be worn vyshita. Wear finished bottom of the frame, and it is neat to cause embroidery created by the customer or sketch of the grounds.
What variety pashmina there?
1. 100% Pashmina
The most tender, soft and thin fabric
Contents of silk fabric can vary between 30-40%. Silk fabrics with more than 40% more dense and less soft to the touch. Textiles, which is less than 30% silk, very soft and white.
3. Single or two-pashmina
Fabric pashminy can be made from the yarn in one or two together. Most often used in the manufacture of pashmin one thread. In this case, get a very soft and light products. Shali, executive of twisted filaments in the two together, the heavier and warm. They are more suitable for the autumn and winter weather.
4. The most delicate pashmina - Ring- pashmina
Attorney, woven from very thin pashminy just nevesomaya; Despite the size, it's easy protyanut through the ring. It did not do a mixture of silk pashminy is 100% pashmina. Its properties bound threads and subtleties of her curl. The stronger unwrinkled thread in spinning, the more soft and light produced product. This variety pashminy apparently was known even in ancient times, as it was believed that this pashmina is only a head, which easily stretches across the ring. Production of Romy were skilled craftsmen at the special weaving machines. Thus, this type of pashminy different from all other special ease and quality.
What is the difference between craft and pashminoy pashminoy, woven by machine?
100% wool pashmina can only manually. In fact, the thread paminy a mild and thin that simply say to modern mechanical machines. In manual weaver yarn tension control, in the case of banks, curler yarn. In modern equipment can be made shawls from the wool, viscose and other materials with a small mix pashminy. It is because of the special tenderness yarn from pashminy, products it is not tkutsya complex invoice patterns, which are often found in products from wool and other materials. Blocks of pashminy-most odnotonnye, if invoices in a pattern, this particular mountain road, as a pattern in manual production requires special skills rare master and time-consuming. Manual difficult to distinguish the product from the production machine is on the edge. Edge shawls, woven by machine, always smooth, while hand-edge products can izgibatsya, sutures may be bound messy and invoice have some defects, irregularities and making painted, but they could be viewed as dignity.
Why pashmina this road?
To manufacture one shawls from the wool pashminy needed, vychesannaya of 4-goats. Curl wool took an average of 15 days, a time to weave the article, and 200 hours. All these form the basis of labour and cost pashminy.
What factors influence the quality pashminy?
First, the product of 100% pashminy better than pashmina- mixture of silk. Secondly, handmade products valued higher than sotkannye to machine. Thirdly, the quality of the yarn pashminy. There are five grades of yarn, with the difference in cost may vary at 25-35%. Quality yarn depends on the length and thickness of fibre, the cheapest class pashminy made from podsherstka, vychesannogo animal from the back. Fourthly, it is very important used paint. When colour yarn dyes may suffer from low quality of the fibre.
"wool" is another name pashminy?
This is not true. Pashmina is the fiber of higher quality than cashmere. Kashmir is undercoat of the same mountain goat Capra Hircus, grazing in the mountain state of Kashmir. In fact, the thickness of fiber podsherstka these animals depends on the environment in which they pasture. The higher the mountain, hard climate, the more thin fibers podsherstka increasing Hircus Capra. Between these fibers are s air, the air is a little-known and heat and cold, so more fiber in podsherstke more air layers, the warmer the animal. Climate Himalaya predgorya in Kashmir fell climate mountainous part of the Himalayas, hence the slight difference in thickness and pashminy cashmere fibers. The thickness of cashmere fiber-micron 19-22, 12-14 pashminy-micron, for comparison, the diameter of human hair-75 microns.
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